TUNU'S PLACE,

The sign in front of Tunu's Place says, "African American Cuisine," so you're excused if you step in expecting Southern soul food. But if you peruse the offerings, get over your disappointment at not being able to have ribs, and order one of the half-dozen main course items on the chalkboard, you're in for a smile at coming full circle. The soul of the West African cookery that introduced America to yams, okra, and gumbo is alive and thriving in this simple Liberian restaurant. West African cuisine is very time-consuming to prepare; the spice blends are complex and the main dishes often combine many ingredients. So Tunu offers only six daily entrees from the 14 listed on the take-out menu, all priced at $7. Most entrees can be served vegetarian -- the menu says all -- but some have meat gravies. A large number are presented over rice, which is often mixed with spices. Some items are indeed reminders of Southern cooking, such as collard greens. Moroccan couscous is a reminder of a neighboring influence on Liberian cooking, and the peanut butter sauce of the mafe (meat over rice) is widespread in West Africa.

Full review.